Where to grab a bite in Cours Julien?

You have to look for it, on Rue des Bergers, a little street running down from Place Notre-Dame-du-Mont. Behind the window, a little piece of Argentina tucked away: Esteban and Alejandra, from Buenos Aires, shape their empanadas by hand, porteño style. Beef, chicken, ham and cheese, spinach, humita, fugazzeta: you order three, then one more.

It’s snacking done right: quick, cheap and excellent. You eat under the Maradona posters with a glass of Malbec, and you’re not the only fans: Balerdi, Rulli and Medina used to eat here before leaving OM this summer.

At 28 Rue Pastoret, the Apulian panzerotto has found its Marseille twist. A fried turnover, golden and crisp, that gives way to properly good melted cheese: indulgent, and brand new.

Inside: beef daube, aubergine parmigiana, polpette… You eat it walking, or on the yellow chairs of the street terrace. Open Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 11pm non-stop: perfect for a savoury afternoon snack.

A few doors down, right next to Le Chat Perché bar, a little shop with a painted front. The doughnuts are fried and filled in front of you, and there are dozens of them: pistachio cream, salted butter caramel, or savoury Italian-style with mozzarella, pesto or ricotta.

It’s indulgent, and the team are lovely: you dither for ages, they help you choose, you leave with two. It’s the only stop on the quest where you can start with dessert.

The row’s bonus is on Place Paul-Cézanne, a stone’s throw from Le Molotov. Empanadas, giant quesadillas oozing cheese, nachos, tacos, burritos: the full menu of a Mexican snack bar, with halal options.

A warning: come properly hungry. The portions are gigantic, and that’s the whole point. There are a few seats on the terrace, but most orders are taken away.

On Rue Saint-Michel, in a former launderette opposite Les 2 Libanais, this is the second spot from Sofiane Benouamane, a chef recognised by Gault & Millau. Brand new, and already the talk of the neighbourhood: his flatbreads are exceptional.

The lavash is made in-house and rolled around braised meat or grilled vegetables, somewhere between Turkey, Lebanon and Armenia. Mezze to share round out the menu, but it’s the durum you come back for.

Pakistani food, street food style, on Place Jean-Jaurès: we’d dreamed of it for ages, and it’s become a real treat. The star is the royal sandwich, wrapped in naans. Heavenly.

Around it: tandoori, biryani, home-made curries, dahl, cheese or garlic naans, to eat in or take away. And it’s open late, every day: the end-of-the-night stop.

On Place Notre-Dame-du-Mont, a narrow corridor in warm colours: orange walls, a long counter, stools. You want to lose yourself in it. The menu is written up on the slates.

It’s brand new, and it’s not just about the tacos: the wine is good too. Grab a seat at the counter, a glass, two tacos, and the evening has begun.

On Rue Crudère, where Wok and Rolls used to be, a taqueria opened at the end of September. It’s brand new too, and you’re spoilt for choice: a taco trio that changes often, always a veggie option, home-made sauces.

The tortillas are made on site from nixtamalised corn. Somewhere between street food and a family canteen, open evenings Tuesday to Saturday, and lunchtimes Thursday to Saturday.

Back on Rue Pastoret, at number 7. A counter as narrow as a corridor, and often a queue on the pavement: here, everything revolves around the Vietnamese sandwich. Warm baguette, crispy pork, Viet mayo, pickled veg and coriander, in four recipes to customise.

On the side: spring rolls, mango sticky rice and Vietnamese coffee. With Panpan Zerotti and Bibou Beignets, Rue Pastoret on its own becomes a round-the-world trip in fifty metres.

On Rue des Trois-Mages, a Moroccan sandwich shop: classic, traditional, home-made. Generously filled breads, home-made fries and sauces, halal, at small prices.

It’s the place to eat in peace, alone with your thoughts, a little away from the bustle of La Plaine. Open Tuesday to Sunday, lunch and dinner.

On Boulevard Chave, the Noailles institution lands in La Plaine. On the menu, the everyday food of Tunis snack bars: kafteji sandwich, brik, lablabi, Tunisian salad.

It’s excellent and generously filled, at small prices. After a Koujina sandwich, the snack quest can call it a day.

The burger has a home too, on Place Notre-Dame-du-Mont. For many in the neighbourhood, these are the best burgers around.

A bun cut in half, a generous filling: the sandwich row couldn’t end any other way.

On Place Notre-Dame-du-Mont, in a former hair salon, an Asturian tapas bar that opened in 2023. Behind the counter, women who love what they do and give everything to the quality of every plate: it’s impressive.

The cider is served the Asturian way, poured from a height. Croquetas, tortilla, pulpo and an award-winning cachopo, to share on the terrace under the plane tree. Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm.

On Cours Julien, a neighbourhood institution. Asabiya is warmth in its purest form: a terrace under the trees, mezze to share, people getting together.

It’s cheap, it’s excellent, and it does you good. Order several plates for the table, and stay a long while.

On Rue Curiol, just above La Plaine. It’s new, it’s good, and it warms the heart. Vegetarian cooking from Gaza: big mezze plates, falafel, hummus, filled sandwiches.

It also houses a free-access Palestinian library, and hosts talks, workshops and Arabic classes. Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30am to 10pm.

On Place Jean-Jaurès, by common consent, the best pizza in the neighbourhood. “In pizza we trust”, says the logo, and we take it at its word.

A pizza is for sharing… or not. Take it away and eat it on a bench in La Plaine.